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Published on LIME.com (http://www.lime.com.)

How to Shop for FACIAL MOISTURIZER

By LIME
Created Aug 9 2007 - 11:17am

On the outside moisturizers do a lot to make the skin more supple and radiant. But your skin isn't just a barrier against the environment. It's a living breathing organ that ingests and processes the substances it comes into contact with. Therefore, the chemicals in moisturizers can produce results that aren't quite as, shall we say, glowing?

It's time to be more selective about cosmetic products. Cosmetics manufacturers do not need FDA approval [1] so up to 12.2 million adults are exposed to human carcinogens on a daily basis through their personal care products.

Moisturizers are made up of four major parts; humectants (which attract water from inside the skin), occlusives (which keep moisture from evaporating), emollients (which fill in the skin's cracks), and a slew of miscellaneous ingredients, including proteins, antioxidants, collagen, and glucose, which all achieve separate effects.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHAT TO AVOID

  • SPF (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide)
  • "No Animal Testing" certification from PETA, CCIC or Leaping Bunny
  • USDA Certified Organic [1]
  • Recyclable containers
 

  • Artificial Color
  • Fragrance
  • Preservatives (parabens and formaldehyde)
  • Petroleum-based products, glycerin and glycols
  • #3 plastic containers



 

Here are some common ingredients you should probably keep your eyes open for:

Alcohol has antibacterial properties and can act as a preservative, making it a common ingredient despite the fact that it dries skin, is highly toxic, and is often mixed with ingredients that make it into a poisonous petrochemical [2].

Petroleum
(propylene, butylene glycol) or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), which acts as an occlusive, also keeps the skin from breathing, which leaves skin drier than it was to begin with. Plus, anything that contains petroleum definitely counts as a non-sustainable product. Look for beeswax, Royal Jelly, shea butter, and vitamin E instead. Also, try to use products with vegetable glycerin as opposed to Glycerin and Glycols.

Phthalates,
another problem ingredient, have been found to produce cancer of the liver and birth defects in lab animals. They are commonly listed simply as Fragrance on labels. Conveniently for some, "fragrances" are considered "industry secrets" and do not have to be listed by their actual names. To avoid phthalates choose unscented products, or products using simple essential oils or botanical sources.

Parabens
are widely used as preservatives but cause hormone disruption and stimulate the growth of breast cancer cells. Formaldehyde is another type of preservative used in cosmetics that is also a known carcinogen. It is often listed as bronopol, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydanation, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternium 15.

Sunscreens
are a valuable addition to moisturizers if and when they are not synthetic. Try Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which reflect the sun's rays rather than absorbing them into the skin.

Finally, don't trust claims that a moisturizer is "all-natural," "100% natural," "pure," "cruelty free," or "hypoallergenic." These are not regulated by the FDA and mean different things for different products.

 

 

FACIAL MOISTURIZER CHEAT SHEET

Aveda Tourmaline Charged Protecting Lotion
$38.00
Contains Parabens and synthetic vitamin E.
Funny scent. Feels more like sunblock than moisturizer. Remains tacky to the touch. Too heavy for day. Not lush enough for night.
Find it at: Aveda stores


Burt's Bees Radiance Day Cream
$14.99
Contains antioxidant-rich Royal Jelly. Very nice smell. More of a night cream. Heavy. Sits on top of skin.
Find it at: CVS Vitamin Shoppe, Whole Foods, Target, beauty supply and health food stores


 

Dr. Hauschka Moisturizing Day Cream
$33.00
A light cream that smells a little like lemon polish and leaves skin very soft. The finish is a little too oily for summer wearing. Contains unidentified Fragrance and Glycerin.
Find it at: Whole Foods, Wild Oats, Anthropologie, natural health food stores, and other locations [3].


Juice Beauty SPF 30 Sheer Moisture
$29.00
USDA certified organic ingredients. Antioxidant rich. Contains synthetic vitamin E (tocopherol acetate) and Glycerin. Smelled almost medicinal. Went on thick. Feels heavy on the face.
Find it at: Sephora, Whole Foods


Origins A Perfect World Antioxidant and Moisturizer with White Tea
$35.00 for 1.7 oz
Subtle scent of fresh tea. Goes on creamy, light and smooth. Takes a little time to absorb, which is good to be aware of in the morning if you’re in a hurry. Leaves skin feeling soft, and pliable. Contains glycerin and glycol. No parabens.
Find it at: ORIGIN’s stores, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Nordstrom’s.


Suki Velvet Facial Cream
$26.65
Contains shea butter and beeswax. No petroleum. A fresh lightweight moisturizer; great for oily skin. Works best if applied after toner (when toner is still wet). Herbal tea, lemon and rose scents. Suki is a member of the Organic Consumer’s Association, Breast Cancer Action, Environmental Working Group, and The Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics. Leaping Bunny Certified—no animal testing.
Find it at: Whole Foods, and other locations [4].


Terralina Facial Moisturizer
$42.00
Lightweight and creamy—it’s the best of both worlds! Smells of fresh tea. No parabens. Contains shea butter.
Find it at: Terralina.com [5], or order over phone at 800-510-8261


Weleda Iris Moisture Cream
$17.99 for 1 oz
No synthetic preservatives, fragrances, or colorants. All packaging is recyclable. Does contain alcohol, glycerin, and fragrance. Astringent stinging sensation—like alcohol evaporating. Feels cool on the skin. Absorbs nicely, but takes time. More liquid than cream. Better for oily skin.
Find it at: Whole Foods

 

 

More LIME's Guide to Buying [5]



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