When I first started drinking wine, I had an oh-so-sophisticated method of choosing the perfect bottle that was based on a combination of price (typically under $10) and how pretty the label was. My favorite? A bottle of Pinot Grigio adorned with an image of a dragonfly ($5.99).

While I don't claim to have an educated palate, these days I look less at the label and more at the company's Web site, because I'm checking to see what sort of things the winery is doing to become more environmentally and socially responsible.

Among all food and beverage categories, it seems like the wine industry is taking the lead in the green movement. I'm hearing about organic and biodynamic farming methods, aggressive waste-reduction and recycling programs, the use of alternative energy sources, and generous employee benefits.

Here are a few of the wines (and one unusual vodka) I'm going to be looking for at the liquor store, pretty label or not:

Trinchero Family Vineyards
From using high-tech methods like energy-conserving equipment to low-tech common sense like picking grapes during the cooler evening hours to reduce the need for refrigeration, Trinchero thinks efficiently and environmentally every step of the way. The company treats its employees right; money gained from recycling goes to an "Employee in Need" program.

What to try: The Chicken Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are made with grapes grown with biodynamic methods.

Bonterra and Fetzer Wineries
Bonterra and sister winery Fetzer were among the first wineries in California to use organic growing methods, and they've pioneered sustainable techniques, such as using cover crops to encourage biodiversity and attract beneficial insects, or fertilizing fields with grape pomace (the mash left over after the grapes have been pressed for their juice). Right now, Fetzer is working on developing lighter weight bottles that will help cut down on transportation fuel.

What to Try: Bonterra's 2005 Viognier, made with organically grown grapes, has flavors of nectarines and peaches — perfect with a summer grilled fish dish.

La Coulée de Serrant
In France's Loire Valley, winemaker Nicolas Joly is one of the wine industry's leading advocates for biodynamic farming methods. He believes that the soil is alive, and needs to be nourished and cared for, and he uses methods such as herbal preparations as pesticides and homeopathic manure-based solutions to treat the soil.

What to Try: Steep prices make these wines good for a special occasion. Cellar a bottle of Nicolas Joly Savennieres Les Clos Sacrés 2005 is a Chenin Blanc — with notes of chamomile and white peach — for a birthday or anniversary.

Frey Vineyards
The use of sulfites (a preservative) prevent many wines from being able to be truly organic, but Frey Wines produces sulfite-free organic wines, good for people who are sensitive to this chemical. Frey uses both organic and biodynamic methods.

What to Try: Frey's bestseller is its Natural Red, a blend of Carignane, Zinfandel, and Syrah grapes. The 2006 Organic Zinfandel is also excellent.


And if you're in the mood for stronger stuff...

Prairie Organic Vodka
Made from the organic corn of a handful of farmers located near Prairie's Minnesota distillery, Prairie is crafted in a facility where nothing goes to waste: the mash left over from the distilled grains is given to local farmers to use as livestock feed, and corncobs make biogas energy that helps power the distillery.


Photo courtesy ricardo.martins.